As transcribed by Jennifer: 155 miles. Much of it hilly. No matter what the Texans say, Louisiana is beautiful. No computer tonight so this post will be continued tomorrow… Go Geoffrey! I love you!
November 1, 2007
Okay, I’m back at a computer. After 3 days solo on the road, I’m going to have company tomorrow. My favorite riding buddy from years ago in Ohio now lives in Natchez, Mississippi, and will be riding on the Natchez Trace with me. Conner left a nice management position at International Paper a few years ago to pursue his dream of opening a pottery studio and making a living as an artist. He’s done a remarkable job, and has carved out a great life here in Natchez.
Wednesday marked the halfway point of the trip, and hopefully the end of crappy pavement. Every Texan I spoke with was very nice, but when they found out I was going into Louisiana they shook their heads. “Roads are real bad over there!” “Yer gonna git yerself kilt over there!” “Bike riders are worth 1000 points, ya’ll know.” Luckily, the opposite is true. At least if you stay on US 84 across Louisiana. 84 is a lovely road with a wide, smooth shoulder, and it passes through several national forests on its way across the rolling hills of north central Louisiana. Not mountains, but some tough rollers that weren’t easy with an extra 20 lbs of gear on my rear rack. Everyone I met was friendly and inquisitive, and only one driver obnoxiously blared his horn at me. The only negative about LA is that many people don’t chain their dogs, so I had several unintended sprints, and a few instances where I just stopped and petted the big dopey mutts.
The other dogs I saw were coyotes. I saw 3 in the late evening Wednesday. Wild and fearless, they all were crossing the road, slowing to give me a long look, and then zip and they’re gone.
With minimal wind and smooth pavement, I motored pretty well and survived the hills in the last 25 miles to finish just at dusk. Dinner at an all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet for $7 was terrific, although it has never occurred to anyone in Winnfield, LA that it’s okay to drink a beer with your meal, not just when you’re driving. After 155 miles, a beer would have been nice, but I’m sure it would not have been a DeChute’s Porter like Paul had been serving up last week.
Today was November 1, All Saints Day. It’s funny, I was thinking about how mad I would get when my friends who went to Catholic school would get the day off and I wouldn’t. However, I am actually carrying a St. Christopher prayer card with me, as I have on all my travels this year. Cool story: During the Longest Day double century + this June, our crew of guys stopped for a break in Mannville in the parking lot of the Catholic church there. The priest came out and said hello and offered us the use of the facilities and garden hose to cool off. A few minutes later he came out and gave each of us one of these St. Christopher cards. St. Christopher is the patron saint of travelers, because he carried the baby Jesus over a raging river to safety. So far, St. Christopher has been keeping me safe. Thanks!
Today I rode from Winnfield to Natchez, Mississippi. A cold start (45 degrees), but a nice section of rolling roadway through the Kisatchie National Forest. Gorgeous, quiet, green, and lush with the fragrance of pine trees. I passed a heron rookery, raucous with the calls of the goofy birds standing in the treetops. I caught a glimpse of an armadillo diving into the brush by the roadside, and watched hawks hunting above the meadows. A Black rat snake snuck across the road ahead of me in the late morning sun. I also passed the carcass of a large wild boar that had been hit on the highway.
After the hills subsided, the wind returned. I had hoped today would be an easy recovery day, but I found myself fading as my odometer passed the 80 mile mark. I drafted a large tractor towing a plow, and after 2 mile of this I was covered in nasty black soot and dust. The traffic increased and the scenery decayed into endless highway stores and industries, and then finally the bridge loomed on the horizon. I paused on top to photograph the mighty Mississippi, and then climbed up to the city of Natchez, where Conner came out to meet me at the visitors center. Here are the photos of these last 3 days, although they’re in no particular order, probably from trying to upload from both mine and Conner’s cameras. Click on the next paragraph for the hidden link.
Natchez is a lovely town. Gorgeous historic homes, quiet shady neighborhoods, and echoes of the hundreds of years of being a port and junction for river and road travelers. We visited Tommy and Chris at the bike shop in the Western Auto store, and Tommy let me tune and clean my bike while we chatted about my trip and about riding the Natchez Trace. Thanks for everything, Tommy. I really appreciate it.
Tomorrow, Conner and I set off north toward Kosciusko, 160 miles up the Trace. It’s going to be a beautiful day.